Camino de la Costa

Camino de la Costa
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Wednesday, May 5, 2010

The Coldfront in Spain Happens Hardly Ever in May

Hombre!  Man,oh, man. For two days straight, from Zamora to Tabara, strong, cold, icy even, northern wind blowing into my face!  First day was fun, I was not afraid of the sun, we walked 35km with hardly any stops.  Second day was painful.  We walked 35 km again, but even my contact lenses were freezing in my eyes from that icicle-creating wind.  And the afternoon, and than night, at an albergue was a lesson in managing your body heat while in Siberia. 
Last night, in Tabara, I asked for extra blankets.  They had none, but turned the heaters on for the night.  We all slept in our sleeping bags, plus blankets, plus throws, all curled up, and were afraid to leave our cozy little world in the morning to pack our things, to get dressed, to brush our teeth, to put on the - ice cold - boots on.
At dinnertime, Spanish TV was showing pilgrims on all the Caminos within Spain freezing beiing cold beiing wet giving up, but also a lot who decided not to give up.  They were showing some pilgrims being rescued from a blizzard by the bomberos (firemen), and lots of pilgrims in good spirits against all odds, anjoying commraderie at albergues. 
Who - not I - can recall a weather map of Spain looking like this in May?  The warmest place is Malaga, with some 70F, reached with difficulty.  Icy winds, snow, rain, sleet.  No heating, or hardly any, in most of the albergues.  Hoooo!  Peregrinos are paying for their sins!  Believers or not (as most of them are nowadays), paying for the sins.  Peregrino´s day´s walk. 
Now, every time I see a lovely spot with sun, I feel like those poor people in the opening scenes of ¨Miracle in Milan¨", gathering in the morning in spots where sun shines, yelling: "Sole, Sole, Sole!", and gathering there, like sardines in a can, at attention, to get some of sun´s rays warmth.
Today, while walking, I wore my jacket the whole time, two pairs of gloves, double underwear.  And this is me, I am ALWAYS hot when I walk.
My lovely companion is here.  Let´s give internet to the young ones.  Toodles.

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